Skip to content

Posts tagged ‘Europe’

May 10

3 Comments

Turkey – Ancient Cities

Ok this is going to be a quick summary of the three key ancient ruins we visit:

APHRODISIAS : Recommended by Rob & Cal Fisher (big thanks), this spot is often missed by tourists who flock to the better know Pammukale-Hierapolis and Ephesus.  But, Aphrodisias is remarkable.  Named after the Greek goddess of love, the city was built in Hellenistic and Roman times (2nd century BC).  You can wander through marble paved streets (they must have needed sun glasses, as the glare from all the marble would have been blinding). The stadium is one of the best preserved in Europe, seating 30,000 people. We seem to have the city to ourselves and spend a couple of hours being transported back to ancient times. The on-site museum also houses an incredible collection of recovered sarcophagus’, marble statues and other ancient artifacts.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

PAMMUKALE & HIERAPOLIS :  Deriving from springs in a cliff almost 200 m high overlooking the plain, calcite-laden waters have created at Pammukale (Cotton Palace) an unreal landscape, made up of mineral forests, petrified waterfalls and a series of terraced basins. At the end of the 2nd century B.C. the dynasty of the Attalids, the kings of Pergamon, established the thermal spa of Hierapolis. The ruins of the baths, temples and other Greek monuments can be seen at the site. http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/485

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

EPHESUS : Is renowned as being the best preserved ancient city in the Mediterranean.  Ephesus was one of 12 important cities of the classical Greek period.  First established in the 10th century BC by the Ionian Greeks (wish I had done ancient history), it eventually came under Roman rule in 129 BC.  Rumor has it that the Gospel of John may have been written here. The most well known image of Ephesus is the Library of Celsus, built in 125 AD with his own personal funds.  The facade has been reconstructed with original pieces and provides a perspective on the scale and grandeur of the time.  The detail invested into the design by the romans is superb throughout everything we have seen. Today, we would probably call such buildings ostentatious. I wonder what will have survived from our generation and been reconstructed for historical significance in the year 4014?

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

May 9

Ucagiz

Ucagiz, is a tiny little fishing village from which you can take boat trips and kayak around the islands and visit the sunken city.  I have booked a house nearby….so I thought!

We discover the property “Your Own Paradise”  is not in Ucagiz, but in Demre and its stretching the truth to call it anything else. The owner has taken poetic license with its location and description; 100 metres from the sea turns out to be a rocky outcrop, the picture of the sun lounges on a beach is several km’s away!! In general the house is OK from a functional point of view, it does have wonderful ocean views from most rooms and a great rooftop terrace. The neighbours who met us and let us in were very friendly and helpful. They ensured we had torches and candles for when the power went out!  Apparently a regular occurrence. The hot water also runs out, we had cold showers on the second day.

The worst thing is the smell, it drove us to leave after 2 days (instead of a leisurely four). Supposedly the rain makes the toilets smell (it was raining). It was worse downstairs, but seemed to seep through the place and it was musty and damp. So much so we all started to feel ill. When I contacted the owner to inform her, I had no reply, but clearly there was no argument on these issues because when we paid the neighbour for our 2 nights he was aware of the change in plans.  The best feature of this house was the washing machine, which we used non stop for the two days; we more than recovered the cost of the accommodation in savings on laundry costs.

In the end it all turned out for the best, as it was cold and wet. Not beach or kayaking weather.  This made us rethink our plans on where to fill in the next two nights.  Since the weather forecast was not looking good, we decided to change direction and head back inland to, Aphrodisias, Pammukale and onto Ephesus. It would be a 750km trip but would prove well worth it.  The original plan was to visit these sites when we returned from Greek Island hopping.  The advantage of doing it now meant: a) Katrina got to see these sites and, b) we now didn’t need to come back to Turkey.  The later meant rethinking the car: if we didn’t come back to Turkey and we could ferry the car across to Greece somewhere we would save some time retracing our way out of Turkey.

Regardless of the weather, we spent the days exploring the coastline between Ucagiz and Kas.  In better weather I am sure we would have enjoyed these seaside locations and maybe we will come back and do that kayak trip, one day.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

May 7

A side step to Belek – for some more golf!

Side is recommended, for it is an old walled city with Roman and Byzantine ruins.

We thought we might stay in Side, but on checking out a couple of options we decided to head round the coast a bit more to Belek (Don was also keen to sample a couple of golf courses).

Belek is a purpose built town of golf resorts and you probably wouldn’t visit unless you wanted to play golf.  We check out a couple of places to stay.  Don does not even get past the first hotel, as the pool is green with neglect.

We pull into the Hotel Vera Verde. We always send Don in to negotiate, as the Turkish like dealing with the man and Don enjoys the challenge of getting a good deal.

This one is pretty good and alternatives are looking slim  They offer us a 2 Bedroom room, all inclusive, for 2 nights for €190 ($285).  You know you’re in a tourist resort when all the prices are quoted in Euro.

Let me explain all inclusive; that’s all meals and alcohol for the entire stay.  They slip wrist bands on us, we dump our gear in the room and head for the poolside bar to start getting our value for money!

Of course it’s a bit like being in a club med resort. You eat buffet food, the cocktails are overly sweet and the gin is a local turkish brand which made me appreciate the difference between good and bad gin!

But it had been a while since we had stayed anywhere reasonable. The pool and beach club were nice, but most importantly Don got two games of golf in, including the novelty of playing the back nine under lights.

Katrina and I went back into Side and explored the ruins during one of Don’s games.  Side at one time had been an important port, so the ruins are pretty impressive.

The old part of town is fully geared for tourists, but still has some charm about it, especially if you get there early enough to beat the first tourist buses.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

May 5

Turkey – Eastern Mediterranean Coast

We hit the Turkish Mediterranean coast at Mersin. The guide books are too nice about this town; it probably shouldn’t even make it into the guide books at all. Highrises line the coastline, all looking the same, maybe the architect from Belgrade moved to Mersin.   Katrina summarises it well “There is nothing redeeming about Mersin and lucky for us we are passing through.”

We did make a detour to Decathalon (rebel sport on steroids), and each picked up some waterproof ‘rock’ shoes in preparation for the turkish beaches.

The eastern Mediterranean coastline is not particularly popular with visitors and we can see why.  We make the most of an overcast day and cover as many kilometers as we can.  We stay the night in Anamur in an average looking hotel and we negotiated a good rate for two rooms and breakfast.  When we ask for recommendations for dinner, we are told the hotel is the best (of course it is).  After a reconnaissance up and down the street, it seems they may be right.  Dinner is Kebabs and meatballs, the usual turkish fare, with a bottle of not so memorable red wine!  Then the turkish entertainment starts. Let’s just say he’s not a candidate for “Turkey – you’ve got talent”.

Katrina, as usual, puts us to shame and is up early for a morning run along the beach.  She makes use of the free exercise equipment, which we’ve seen frequently provided in public areas.  People do seem to use it, predominantly men.  You see men and women out getting some exercise, however most of the women are still in traditional headdress and clothing.  I don’t know how they cope with the heat, as the clothing is always long sleeved and heavy.

Breakfasts in Turkey generally consist of bread (you get served bread with everything), tomatoes, cucumbers, cheese and a hard boiled egg.  Sometimes an omelet is on offer as well.  Tea and, of course, turkish coffee goes without saying.  Regular coffee with milk is Nescafe, which is an example of market domination.  When we ask for coffee the reply is; “turkish, or Nescafe?” I am sure you can guess that the CPI has hit an all time low, the cheapest being $1.00 for a cup of nescafe without milk.  I am not sure if nescafe without milk rates better, or worse, than nescafe with powdered milk!

Anyway, I digress.  The breakfast on this morning is ordinary. I am not sure if it was tea, or coffee, that we tried to drink, but we skipped the eating part because all the plates were dirty.  A boiled egg seemed the safest option and then we got back on the road!

Katrina working out

May 4

Cappadocia

You think you’ve stepped into a star wars movie set. Millions of years of erosion has created a lunar-like landscape; thousands of natural rock formations rise across the Cappadocia landscape, where for centuries humans burrowed into to create homes and churches.

These days the cave dwellers are predominantly tourists (like us) staying in cave hotels. I can’t recommend the Divan hotel enough.  The warm and friendly atmosphere,along with impeccable service, is faultless.  The highlights of Cappadocia include: its spectacular sunsets, warm and welcoming locals and taking a hike through a rose-pink gorge. The hotel provides a complimentary sunset walk (hike is more like it) through the Rose Valley. Ali was our guide, who had great knowledge of the area, showing us some wonderful cave homes along the way.

The Göreme Open-Air Museum is one of Turkey’s World Heritage Sites, where we easily spent two-hours. It was firstly an important Byzantine monastic settlement that housed some 20 monks, then a pilgrimage site from the 17th century. The cluster of rock-cut churches, chapels and monasteries is 1km uphill from the centre of Göreme.  I also have to confess; this last bit came straight out of the guide book..

The underground city of Derinkuyu was incredible. The city is a labyrinth of tunnels, some so narrow and low that you aren’t sure you will fit (don’t visit if you suffer from claustrophobia). We travel down over 60m, passing communal kitchens, stables, bedrooms and churches.  At certain points stone wheels are poised ready to seal in and protect the occupants.  Holes above some tunnels are to pour hot oil over intruders.  The city which dates back to the 7th century BC would have housed 20,000 people.  All of which I still find hard to comprehend!

I could go on for pages about Cappadocia, it’s a surreal and magical spot. I am not sure if there is anywhere else on the planet quiet like it…

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

« Older Entries
Newer Entries »