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Posts tagged ‘Europe’

The Jenson’s

Think Jetsons cartoon 🎶Meet B J Jensen, his wife Heidi, their son Mads and Nikki too… 🎶

One morning many many years ago I sat down to breakfast.

As the sleepy fog cleared I realised that it wasn’t one of my four brothers sitting at the end of the table – we had a visitor.

The conversation probably went along the lines of:
L: with slight interest “Who are you?”
B: “Bjarne, from Denmark”
L: satisfied with the answer “Can you pass the milk please”
end of conversation

My brother Mark had met Bjarne (BJ) skiing in Austria and had invited him to stay. Not unusual in our household; it could be like living in a hotel at times, people coming and going, siblings moving in and out and back in again.

So here Bjarne was, sitting at the table enjoying breakfast. Mark wasn’t even living at home, but Bjarne now was.

Bjarne holds the record for the longest stay; about 18 months* and he quickly become part of the family; working for my brother Luke who had a lawn mowing business and for Paul who was in construction.

wpid-rps20151010_114114_383.jpgApparently I treated him just like a brother too, often telling him to ‘shush’ and fobbing off household chores to him!

*It should be noted that Bjarne did move out for a part of this time – just across the road, close enough to pop home for family dinners.

And, like all good tourists, he spent a few months driving his Kombi van around Australia. But he always returned to 84 Kingston street eventually.

With a desire to live in Australia, Bjarne went home and lured his girlfriend out on a return trip a few years later.

Unfortunately, he was unsuccessful in convincing Heidi to leave family and friends behind in Denmark.

So, here we are on Bjarne’s doorstep – he can hardly say no, can he?

Of course Bjarne and Heidi greet us warmly. They haven’t changed a bit, except they also have two strikingly tall sons, Mads 25 with his fashionable beard – very viking looking and Nikki 21, who is waiting with envy to get enough facial hair to compete with his brother!

We catch-up on family news and life in general. Bjarne shows off his bowling skills at Lalandia, the nearby holiday resort which is a popular destination for Scandinavians.

wpid-rps20151010_114230_219.jpgDon and Bjarne quickly bond over beer; Carlsberg and Tuborg are the local brands.  Heidi introduces us to an array of Danish tastes, such as frikadeller (meat or fish balls), flaeskesteg (roast pork with crackling) and herring, along with many other local delights.

wpid-rps20151005_090634_673.jpgIn my teens my one and only pen-pal was Bjarne’s cousin, Bitten, and after so many years it was lovely to finally meet her.

Rødby is a small town of 6,500 people.  The region has struggled in the economic decline, waiting on the promised commencement of a tunnel to connect the port of Rødby with Germany.

The project will generate jobs and ongoing economic benefits. For now, many people seek work outside the area. BJ has been commuting to Copenhagen – 1.5hrs each way.

Bjarne, Heidi and Nikki are heading off to the Greek Islands for two weeks. Before leaving us the house keys, they take the time to help us organise cycling plans for the next week.

Waffles, Beer & Chocolate

Belgium, Holland, Denmark, Norway – that’s the plan.

We pick up our wheels for the next 47 days in Calais, not known for its tourist highlights, but it is known for its discount wine stores.

wpid-wp-1442367426476.jpegDon has carefully calculated a wine quota for the trip; wine is expensive in Scandinavia (along with everything else) and we do love a good French champagne, white, rose and red. It’s not long before the car boot is full and we begin our journey north.

First stop is Bruges; this tiny city was once a major commercial hub for Europe.

Now it is a prominent world heritage site wearing a plethora of descriptive accolades, often referred to as something straight out of a fairy-tale or the ‘Venice of the north’.

Though if you have ever seen the movie “In Bruges” starring Colin Farrell, you wouldn’t describe that movie as a fairy-tale.

Bruges

Bruges, a well-preserved medieval town, which I acknowledge has become a much over used phrase of mine; cobbled streets lined with 12th Century architecture run along meandering canals dotted with swans…get the picture!

If you are happy to join the throngs of tourists who also head here, it’s worth a visit. The best time to wander around Bruges is after the tourist buses have left.

We stayed in the area for three nights with Magda and Patrick in their lovely Brugge-man B&B.  They are a well travelled couple who provided us with loads of tips and advice.

We made a day trip to Ypres and the In Flanders Field Museum.

The museum depicts the 4 year trench warfare in the region during WWI and is housed in the reconstructed Cloth Hall (market building), which was destroyed.

Surprisingly, we managed to spend a few hours here before heading to Lille for lunch and one last stop on the way home in Kortrijk.

If you are a war historian then this is the place for you – my brother Mark would love it; lots of museums, battle fields and monuments to visit. One a day is enough for us.

Leaving Bruges we head toward Rotterdam.

We drive through Ghent which we decided isn’t worth a stop, but we enjoy lunch in Antwerp sitting outside soaking up the sunshine in one of the many cafĂ©s in the medieval heart of the city.

Rotterdam is a refreshingly modern city, flattened in World War II it doesn’t retain any historical charm. Nonetheless, we really enjoyed it. We stayed at The Student Hotel. A large private room with a kitchenette, easy parking, washing machines and bicycles for hire.

Near Rotterdam

Opting for two-wheeled transport we ride out to Kinderdijk to see the windmills it is famous for. Forty kilometers later, Don is a little saddle sore – he hadn’t been on a bike since Cuba.

As we leave Rotterdam behind we make a detour to the nearby town of Delft, renowned for its delftware; the pretty blue and white stuff with windmills and milk maidens painted on it.

It looks a lot like chinese porcelain, that’s because the potters started copying them around the 17th century.

It’s a little dated for my taste and oh-boy is the stuff expensive!

Since being in Europe this year, I have been amazed by the sheer number of people cycling. Everyone is on a bike; young and old. The first time a woman, a few good years older, passed me with ease, I put it down to my pathetic fitness.

It took a while to realise these grey-headed cyclists had a little help.

E-bikes have taken off, in Europe alone sales increased by 55% on the previous year – over 700,000 electric bikes.

I’m keen to join the party and convince Don to make a detour to the Sparta test centre, just one of the many brands.

Our current plan when we return to Australia – less than 3 months away, is to be a one car family.

I think an e-bike is a fantastic alternative for urban commuting. Don’t get me wrong, I don’t think for a minute it provides any serious level of exercise.

What it does offer is a means of transport that won’t work up such a sweat that you need a shower; it’s faster than walking and cheaper and more convenient than a car.

To cut a long story short, we research and test e-bikes at numerous locations through Belgium, Holland and Germany.

Narrowing down our prefered models and best prices, we seriously toyed with buying a bike in Europe and bringing it home with us. Whilst it could save us some money, the regulations on traveling with lithium batteries and the hassle factor deterred us.

However, I’ve already found a place in Melbourne who has what I want, watch this space for future e-bike tales!

wpid-wp-1442366849847.jpegNext stop is Amsterdam and the best way to see this canal city is on a bicycle.

Our cultural excursion is the Rijksmuseum, renowned for its collection of Dutch art and some wonderful masterpieces such as Rembrandt’s The Night Watch and Vermeer’s The Milkmaid.  It houses over 8,000 paintings and object d’art.  The audio guide is very helpful if, like me, you know nothing about art.

Trappist, Abbey, Dubble, Lambic – do you know what these words have in common?

Beer – they are all types of beer and Don has set himself a challenge to taste as many local beers as possible.

wpid-photogrid_1438611526060.jpgThey take their beer very seriously in this part of the world; every beer even comes in its own elaborate glass.

The tulip glass is the glass of choice for many. Its shape apparently traps the aroma, aids in maintaining the head of the beer and is aesthetically pleasing. Whilst lambic style beers tend to be served in a taller flute style and the weizen glass is used for wheat beer. Who knew so much thought went into drinking beer?

Don manages to sample quiet a few local beers and I end up designated driver – lucky for him I don’t like beer.

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London

Whilst I have been peddling around the european countryside, Don has spent two weeks in the Scottish highlands with 16 other lads.

In between drinking (lots of) beer and whisky, they played 14 rounds of golf across 11 different golf courses.

If you want to know any more about the golf, you’ll need to ask him directly.

It’s a boys trip; which means “what goes on tour stays on tour.”  And do I really want to know?

At the end of the golf, which included a day at St Andrews to watch the British Open, Don headed to London and was fortunate enough to secure some tickets to Lords for the 2nd Test (cricket, if you weren’t sure).

This was also an opportunity to catch-up with a tribe of friends from home: Neil & Margie, Paul & Michelle, Leeanne, Dale, Michael & Dianne.

We are staying in Blackheath with Steve, who we met on our cycling trip in Cuba.

Everyone throws out post holiday superlatives and offers of “come and stay anytime” to your travel companions, not thinking that anyone will ever take you up on the offer.

6 months later; we’re on Steve’s doorstep!  The problem with the Callanders – they will take you up on the offer!

Steve warmly welcomed us for the week and his generosity included hosting more of the group for a small reunion.

Andy and Sarah took a day off work and traveled down from Manchester. Kate (who does not live in Oxford) traipsed across London (from wherever she does live) to spend the night at Steve’s.

Unfortunately, Rachel missed her plane (from Melbourne) and couldn’t make it.

Cuban cigars and beret in hand, it was a night filled with lots of laughter, banter and music quiz’s (I don’t remember who won).  Plans were also hatched for a future cycle tour through Vietnam.

Our week was busy; not so much sightseeing, but lots of catching up with friends and even some family – new and old.

Drinks with Colin, who we met on our tour through Mexico. Don sees Linda and Alistair Callander. Leeanne shouts us lunch, after a number of years in the UK she has decided to return to Australia.  Which is good news for us, we have a future dog sitter lined up, for the in-future dog.

A visit to London would not have been complete without seeing Mark and Alison. They hold a special place in our travels, having now seen them three times throughout our tour.

Family friends, Sandra and David took us for a lovely stroll through the grounds of Knole Estate, the property which dates back to 1603, and includes a deer park and golf course.

Our main purpose for detouring through London was to collect a visa for China.  You can only apply for a visa three months before your travel date, which makes it a bit difficult when you are traveling.

I checked out everything online to make sure we’ve got what we need, know where to go and when. We have a tight timeframe given it takes three days to process, so we don’t have room for delay…

Tuesday morning we rock-up at the Chinese Visa office, paperwork in hand.
Visa Office: “What time is your appointment”
Me: “We want to make an appointment”
Visa Office: “the next appointment is in two weeks”
Me: “Where does it say that on your website?”
Visa office: “Oh, page three”
Me: “Perhaps you need to make that a bit clearer”!

We resort to finding a visa application service who, for a generous fee, can fast-track the wait and have our visas by the end of the week.

They did raise some concern about our itinerary including Kashgar. The province borders Afghanistan and Pakistan, is considered a ‘sensitive area’ and a hot-spot for extremism.

If our application is delayed we didn’t have a ‘Plan B’, so we are relived to collect our passports on Friday, stamped with our China visas.

Time to resume our travels.

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Cycling down the Danube

After about an hour of cycling I began to wonder why I decided to put myself in this situation.

Why did I think spending 14 days cycling was going to be fun?

From ZĂĽrich I took the train to Passau, where I collected my bike, so I’m ready to head off in the morning.

About an hour into the ride, my body starts reminding me that I haven’t been on a bike since December.

My neck is stiff, my knees creak and most of all, my bum is sore!

The Danube route is dead flat, so much so it makes for constant peddling, which is a bit exhausting when you don’t have any bike fitness. I’d like a little hill right now, so I can get a rest on the way down.

As I contemplate what I had committed myself to, the kilometers slipped by and a couple of hours later I arrived in Schlögen, my first stop.

Aside from it being stinking hot, it was a relatively easy ride. Schlögen is a tiny hamlet where the one and only hotel dominates the landscape.

The days quickly become routine; cycle, shower, eat and sleep.

I don’t think I had a day under 35 degrees, so I would be on my bike by 8am to avoid the heat.

This meant I usually arrived at my destination before the designated check-in time (2-3 pm). You would think given the number of people cycling, an activity most people do early, the hotels would be ready for this?

Hot, sweaty and tired I resorted to finding a comfy spot to have a cool drink and put my feet up.

Day three was the toughest day to get back on my bike. The day before had been a long, hot 68km and I was facing another 60. My muscles ached and my bum didn’t want to get back on that seat!

I actually looked up the train schedule from Linz to Grein…but couldn’t bring myself to do it.

Climbing back on, I took it easy, stopping every 20km or so. From Linz onwards the route passes through towns and villages more frequently. I found this made the ride more interesting and the kilometers pass unnoticed.

Traveling solo, I often fell victim to hotels putting me in a tiny single-bed room, in an out-of-the-way corner of the hotel.

The hotel in Grein is 5km out of town, a lovely forest setting and promotes itself as a resort-style spa hotel.

Once again, I find my room is in an out-of-the-way corner of the building. I open my door to a small single bed (of course), overlooking the roof between two buildings, I didn’t even get a view of the car park!

The heat reflecting off the roof made the room temperature feel 40 degrees plus. After a brief discussion I was given another room.

The days passed quickly and everyday got a little easier.  It’s certainly a great way to get your fitness up and if I did it again I would add a few extra nights to enjoy towns like Linz and the Wachau wine region.

With a sense of triumph I arrived in Vienna early afternoon on my sixth day of cycling. The temperature was soaring towards 40 degrees and I was feeling hot and tired.

After a long cool shower I ventured out with intention of exploring Vienna.  The heat hit me like a brick wall, I walked about 100 meters down the street before I changed my mind.  I would be coming back to Vienna in about a weeks time; it could wait.

Stopping at a small supermarket I stocked up on snacks, headed back to my air-conditioned hotel, curled-up in bed and watched movies on Netflix.

Day 1: Passau to Schlögen 44km
Day 2: Schlögen to Linz 68km
Day 3: Linz to Grein 61km
Day 4: Grein to Emmersdorf 67km
Day 5: Emmersdorf to Traismauer 57km
Day 6: Traismauer to Vienna 75km

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349 Days

One Year done.  Actually, it’s been a total of 49 weeks and 6 days since we left Australia – close enough to call it a year.

We’ve covered 20 countries on 3 continents; some only got a brief look in as we passed through, others were explored in detail.

Africa:

  • South Africa
  • Botswana
  • Zambia

Europe:

  • England
  • France
  • Italy
  • Serbia
  • Croatia
  • Bulgaria
  • Turkey
  • Greece
  • Montenegro
  • Slovenia
  • Austria
  • Switzerland
  • Germany
  • Spain

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North America:

  • USA
  • Mexico
  • Cuba

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And here are some useless bits of trivial information, the sort of thing you find yourself compiling when on holidays:

  • We’ve slept in more than 120 different beds.
  • Taken 19 flights in 1 year – all in economy!
  • Lost: 1 camera (that was about to die), several hats and random items of clothing.
  • Been healthier than ever: besides a couple of colds and stomach bugs in Turkey.
  • No accidents – survived two weeks skiing without breaking or tearing something.
  • Cheapest accommodation still must be: €15 a night on Leros.
  • Most expensive accommodation: €160 a night in Paris.
  • CPI (Coffee Price Index): Vail at US$6 overtakes Venice €4.50 as the most expensive coffee. I doubt we will ever beat €0.50 in Berane, Montenegro for the cheapest.
  • WCP (Wine Consumption Price): most expensive was £9 for a glass of champagne in London, the Cheapest in France (of course), €4 a bottle.  Even with our love of happy hours, we’ve not done better than that.
  • Cheapest haircut was US$5 for Don in Cuba.
  • The year is captured in 93 Blog posts – though often well behind!
  • Total photos taken – not exactly sure, but it easily exceeds 10,000.  Who wants to come to the slide show?

The list of friends around the world, who have extended their generous hospitality continues to grow, along with those friends who joined us along the way.

It began in Johannesburg with Mark and Alison Brown (we also spent a night with them in London). We also had a delightful few days with Alison’s parents, the Becketts on their farm in Choma, Zambia. In Europe we are joined by/catch-up with:

  • Ross and Kate for dinner in London.
  • Katrina spends 6 weeks on a road trip through Turkey before we bid her farewell on Santorini.
  • Along our journey we see Helen and Rod, Bruce, Penny, Dale, Leeanne, Elisa and Ian.
  • There is dinner in Paris with our Niece Claire.
  • My sister Jane joins us for three weeks.
  • Andrea and Margit (her Mum) took us hiking in the Austrian Alps.
  • The Ryan’s let us take over the washing machine and hang-out with the family in Lausanne, Switzerland.
  • In London, Don plays golf with Lloyd and we have a drink with Mike at the James Blunt concert, Lucerne.

State side:

  • Ang & Chris Hilsabeck make Dallas our home away from home.
  • Tom & Diane make us feel part of the family in Palm Springs.
  • I stay with Lindsey Haviland in Connecticut, before meeting Robina for two weeks of living it up in New York.
  • Seattle; Don has dinner with Peter and Debbie – whom we met in Turkey.
  • Sue Haviland and hubby John, join us for some skiing in Vail.
  • We overnight with Andrea again, in her new Park City abode.
  • Martha and Doug open up their home and have us to stay in Santa Barbara.
  • John & Holly Bracknell (and Hollis & Sally) provided us with our own camper in Florida and John joins our road trip to the Florida Keys.
  • Jamie flies into LA for a few days.  We catch-up with more of Don’s golf pals; Jeff and Neal, whilst skiing.

Don celebrates his 50th birthday.  It started with the boys playing golf on the West Coast, Footey (Andrew) is the only one not to follow onto Mexico.

A number of Australians join us in ‘Resortville Mexico’: Tyrone & Julie, Jeff & Georgie, Pete & Emily, Neil & Margie .

In Mexico, we meet Catriona (a fellow Australian) and she puts us up for the night in Puerto Morelos.

Last, but not least, all our Intrepid companions, too many to name here.  You made our travels through Mexico and Cuba loads of fun.

Yes, we are still talking:

Of the 349 days traveling, Don & I spend 335 of them together.

Outside of the few games of golf Don played on his own, or the odd hours here and there, we might split, we literally were together 24×7.

That’s not normal!

Yes, we had our moments – probably a ‘moment’ or two most days.

But, at the end of each day we still like each other and we’re still talking to each other.

I could get deeply analytical about relationships, but that’s really not what either of us are about.

All I can say, is it worked.  It worked well enough for us to continue our travels into 2015.

So, hang on – there’s more to come….