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Posts tagged ‘Europe’

Sep 14

Sister on Board!

We make it to Pierrefonds just in time to check-in with our hosts before they finish lunch and return to work.

I’ve booked our accommodation through Airbnb, so I am a little nervous about what we will get on arrival (due to past experiences) and particularly as this will be Jane’s first destination.

As we arrive, I’m confident the town is a good choice; the village of Pierrefonds sits in the shadow of one of the most striking Châteaux.  We pull-up outside the address and the Château is looming in the background.

The location is great and our hosts have recently renovated a 15th Century cottage on their property, our home for 3 nights.  Phew, we’ve chosen well!

Friday morning we drive the 60km to Charles de Gaulle to collect Jane.  It was touch and go whether she would make it, so I am relieved to see her come out through those airport doors, a little tired but excited to be in France!

The last time Jane was in Europe is in the 70’s, doing the typical right-of-passage as a young 20-something, backpacking around Europe and working in London. Her adventures took her to Russia and Afghanistan back then. This trip will be a little less adventurous.

After being in Europe for nearly 6 months, it’s refreshing to have someone onboard who is seeing things for the first time.

We’ve become a bit blaze about staying in 15th Century dwellings, but Jane is in awe and you do have to remind yourself to put things into perspective; when this place was built, Captain Cook wouldn’t discover Australia for another 300 years!

Pierrefonds is a lovely village, one of the best preserved we have been to (and we’ve seen a few).  A perfect first destination for anyone looking for quintessential France. The Château of Pierrefonds, dates back to the 12th Century.

It’s had a turbulent history and was partly demolished in the early 1600’s, remaining in ruins for nearly 2 Centuries. It was rescued by Louis-Napoléon Bonaparte (later Napoleon III of France) and restoration began in the 1850’s.

Inside the Château there is a collection of larger-than-life figurines, know as the Collection Monduit, these lead castings were made by the same company that made the Statue of Liberty.  

Down in the crypt is a collection of tombs with plaster casts representing Noblemen and Women, Emperors, Countesses and other important figures in history, dating back to the 12th century.

In recent times, the Château has featured as a location for films such as Highlander and Joan of Arc, as well as the BBC series Merlin.

There is a superb bakery and deli in the village and Jane’s first meal is a feast of french baguette, cheese and foie gras, washed down with a bottle of french bubbly – of course!

We thought there had been a mistake when we paid €22 for a small 100 gm slice of foie gras. Don went back to question it, only to discover it was €240 per kg! It was superb and we savoured every mouthful.

We ease Jane into Europe time, exploring the surrounding villages of Compiègne (not much to say about it) and Chantilly, visiting the Château de Chantilly which is impressively grand.

The grounds, which include a racecourse, cover over 115 acres. The current Château was completed in 1881 and is home to the Musée Condé, one of the finest collections of paintings in France and an impressive library full of rare historic manuscripts and first editions.

So, Jane has quickly settled into our casual touring routine; it generally starts with a coffee and croissant for breakfast,  then take in a few sites, find a lunch destination, enjoy the plat-du-jour with a glass of red, a few more sites for the afternoon, or an afternoon nap perhaps!

Dinner is usually a lesser event consisting of some nibbles, maybe a salad and some more french red.

Next stop Paris.

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Sep 11

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Normandy

The Bayeux Tapestry is more like a cross stitch than a tapestry, but impressive nonetheless.

At just under 70 metres in length, the tapestry’s 50 scenes depict the Normandy conquest of 1066 which culminated in the Battle of Hastings.

Housed at a museum in Bayeux, the overall experience is very well done. The price of admission includes an audio recording which talks you through each scene and the craftmanship behind the work.

Besides being informative, the audio also keeps the viewers moving – smart crowd management.

Upstairs, there is more information on the making of the tapestry and the Normandy invasion which you can wander through at your own pace.

The Normandy coast has a long and turbulent history from Celtic, Roman and Viking squabbles to the more recent history of World War II.  The Normandy Landings were one of the most significant campaigns by allied forces which led to the liberation of Europe and end of the war.

You could spend days visiting the landing sites and historic land marks along the coast. There are also countless museums. We decide on one, a newly released film shown in a 360′ cinema built on the clifftop at Arromanches.

Arromanches played an important part during the landings, an artificial port was created, which provided access for troops and heavy artillery.

The film is truly incredible, a collation of World War II archive material gathered from around the world, including german footage.

It summaries the state of play prior to the landings and graphically displays the landings and liberation of the French villages. The film is an emotive tribute to the soldiers and civilians who were killed during the battle.

Bayeux
Bayeux Cathedral
Arromanches

Once again we are winging-it with no accommodation planned and the new favourite web site chambresdhotes.org saves the day.

We have stopped at a small shopping mall for free wifi, within an hour our accommodation is secured and we head off to our B&B in Epreville, a small village just outside Rouen.

We are warmly greeted by Jean-Yves, with his excellent English. He shows us through his lovely home, trying to tempt us to upgrade into one of his premium rooms.

They are all lovely, but so is ours for the more ‘basic-price’, more suitable to our budget.

We also ask Jean-Yves for a dinner recommendation, he talks us through the nearby choices and we opt for the recommendation he describes in the more ‘basic-price’ category.

The French love a set price menu which always works out to be more cost effective. It might be good for the budget, but not for the waist. The ‘basic-price’ did not disappoint, another superb meal added to the memory banks.

Jean-Yves and his wife Marie-Lise have been running the B&B for 15 years. They are very proud to note that they are listed in the Michelin Guide.

A place in the Michelin Guide is earned not paid for, Michelin take their recommendations seriously and undertake covert reviews at anytime. From our experience, the honour is well deserved.

Rouen is a pretty town sitting on the river Siene. It was here in 1431 that Saint Joan of Arc was burned at the stake.

The impressive Notre Dame cathedral, with its Tour de Beurre (butter tower), according to a most reliable source (Wikipedia), the tower was financed by the sale of indulgences for the consumption of butter during Lent.

We even visit the art gallery in town on the promise of viewing some Impressionists. There are a few from well know artists including Claude Monet, but overall it was probably a little disappointing.

On departing Epreville, we stop off at the Castle Martainville, it’s one of those great finds, off the regular tourist track.

The castle was completed in 1505. Again, we are impressed that the entry includes headsets with a self guided tour of the property.

We were on a tight schedule to make it to Pierrefonds (need to check-in at lunchtime, or our hosts will be at work until late), so we did do a rush-job on the castle.

It is well worth the visit though, hosting an extensive and impressive range of regional furniture from the 15th Century and other household items including linen, china and clothing, representing everyday life at the time in Normandy.

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Sep 9

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Châteaux & Castles

The Loire Valley is referred to as the Garden of France, due to the abundance of vineyards, orchards and vegetables grown along the banks of the river. It is also know for its historic towns (unusual in France – not) and architecture.

I found a gorgeous B&B through a newly discovered website: Chambres d’hotes; Corinne & Marc run Le Clos du Haut Villiers, it’s a charming french home set in beautiful gardens.  It was a pity we only had time to stay one night.

On Corinne’s advice we had dinner in nearby Montrichard, sitting outside in the medieval square that dates back to the 11th century. It’s moments like this, that reminded us of how lucky we are.

There are numerous châteaux adorning the Loire River and its tributaries. We know we can’t visit the all, it’s a bit like wine tasting, you can only do so many in one day without them all starting to look the same.

We start with Chenonceau, one of the most impressive châteaux in France, stretching across the river Cher.  The current structure commenced in 1513 and has a unique history, being that most of it was in the hands of Women.

The construction of what is known today as Chenonceau, began in 1515 and was overseen by Katherine Briçonnet, but the property was seized by the crown for outstanding debts and became the home of Diane de Poitiers, mistress to King Henry II.

Diane embellished the property with extensive gardens she also commissioned the bridge from the château across to the opposite bank.

Upon the death of Henry in 1559, his wife; Catherine de Medici forced Diane out and took up residence at the château. Catherine added the grand gallery over the bridge and extended the already lavish gardens.

During the french revolution Chenonceau was in the hands of Louise Dupin, she is attributed to saving the château from destruction during the French revolution

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Château Villandry was a ‘sight-seen’ visit, as we stopped off for a coffee and peered through the fence. Impressive, but we decided to keep going before parting with our euros for an inside look.

Probably our favourite château was Azay-Le-Rideau. An original castle had stood on the site in the 1200’s, burnt to the ground in 1418. The land was acquired 100 years later by the King’s Treasurer, Gilles Berthelot. The château designe was strongly influenced by the architecture of the Italian renaissance.

In 1527, Berthelot went into exile, fearing being caught for having his finger in the till! The château was later confiscated by the crown.

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Rising out of flat coastal marshlands along the Normandy coast is a single rocky outcrop, at it’s peak sits the Abbey of Le-Mont-St-Michel. It has to be one of France’s most iconic landmarks. Technically, it’s neither a Castle or Château, but its been on my ‘bucket list’ for a long time.

The story goes, that in 708, the Archangel Michael appeared to the Bishop of Avranches, commanding him to build a church on the rocky islet. As a result, the Bishop consecrated a small church on the rock in 709.

Between the 11th and 16th centuries the Benedictine Abbey was built and a village grew under its shadow during the middle ages. Military defenses were added in the wake of the 100 year war, enabling it to survive a siege of 30 years.

Over 3 million people visit the rock either as pilgrims or tourists. We arrive late in the afternoon so the tourist buses seem to have already departed. We make our way through the narrow alleys to the top, unfortunately the Abbey is already closed. The views are still worth it!

It’s been a busy day: we’ve covered over 300km, took in three châteaux, an Abbey and numerous quaint/pretty/lovely historic towns along the way. Out of ‘puff’ we find a Chambres d’hote on the side of the road to bed down in for the night, it’s basic, clean and cheap (€35). Surprised to find something so reasonable near Mont-St-Michel. A bistro across the road provides an adequate dinner, lights are out not long after.

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Sep 7

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The French Atlantic

A mere 15km from San Sebastian and we are back in France.  I’ve said it before, but it was instantly discernible with the appearance of red trimmed, white washed buildings.

With the promise of beach weather continuing, we didn’t want to venture far from the coast.  Stopping in at St Jean de Luz for a stroll, we decided it wasn’t quite where we wanted to stay.  I did, however, acquire a lovely pair of espadrilles and we then continued north along the Atlantic coast to Biarritz.

Donal Ryan (see Switzerland) had recommended the spot and we quickly agreed.  This town had a lot more going on. We did a reconnaissance of the nearby hotels, worked out the going rate and choose one.

If you venture away from the main tourist promenades you discover little backsteets with a spattering of bars and restaurants. Still under the influence of Spain, they serve sangria and pintxos, but with a french twist. We couldn’t go past the foie gras de canard, washed down with a french moelleux. This is a sweet white wine that goes perfectly with foie gras.

Biarritz
Biarritz, Pintxos
Biarritz, Pintxos
Biarritz, Pintxos

After a brief detour back to Beaulieu to pick-up our deposit (long story for another time), we continue north west arriving at La Rochelle.  The old town is a stunning medieval sea port with two old towers guarding the sea entrance.

Whilst clearly a tourist town, it also had the feel of a city going about its business.  The Saturday markets are a lively feast of colour.  We’ve been to many a French market, but never tire of them; you can tell by the number of photo’s I take!

A weekly produce market occupying an old town square is full of charm and character, they personify French life. The produce is so fresh and inviting, with wonderful smells and colour that overload the senses.

The French passionately support locally grown, fighting the ever encroaching big-box formats. It could be a career limiting comment for me, but I hope the local market does not fall victim to the convenience of the mass retailer.

La Rochelle Markets
La Rochelle Markets
La Rochelle Markets
La Rochelle Markets
La Rochelle Markets

Our accommodation is the Ibis and whilst 10km out of town, it’s near the beach and also in a small Albert Park-esq suburb.  The location worked out well as we managed to fit in a bit of beach time, well aware that this is probably our last hurrah for some sun and sea.

At an exorbitant cost of a €16 toll, we drive across to Isl de Rey (just off La Rochelle), it’s a popular holiday destination for cyclists and walkers with a great network of tracks crisscrossing the island.

After driving around a somewhat uninspiring flat island, we stop at St Martin de Ray for lunch. We feast on freshly shucked oysters and a bottle of local white wine, sitting on the sea wall; the island quickly redeemed itself.

We are counting down the days until we meet our new passenger in Paris, so it is time to continue up the coast.

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Sep 4

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Pintxos & Sangria

With a night up our sleeves, we head to Bilboa. Since becoming home to the Guggenheim in 1997, Bilbao has undergone a rejuvenation and enjoyed a steady increase in tourism. It’s a city that has blended old and new well together.

Bilboa is a ‘good news’ story; in 1991, the Mayor of Bilbao; Jose Ortuondo, passionately lobbyed for the city to be selected as the home of the Guggenheim Museum. Salzburg, the more favoured contender, couldn’t get it’s act together and the Mayor convinced the Guggenheim foundation to select his city.

Well known American architect, Frank Gehry, selected the site and had a vision for developing the surrounding landscape as well. The building is striking, an art piece in itself; built of limestone, glass and titanium.

Guarding the entrance to the museum is Puppy, a stunning sculpture of flowers. Puppy, a West Highland Terrier, stands 12 metres tall.  It’s host to around 60,000 plants, supported by an internal watering system.

On show is Yoko Ono’s ‘Half a wind’ exhibition, an interesting display of sound and vision, but we both enjoyed just walking through the building. 

We’ve once again arrived without accommodation, so we follow our usual routine; find a cafe, order a glass of red and hit the internet. This stop also included a few pintxos (bite size snacks, generally with a tooth pick and on a piece of bread). We discover the city is hosting the world basketball championships and is pretty full. However, with perseverance (and another glass of red), we secured a hotel in the old quarter of the town.

Iturrienea B&B is only accessible on foot, located in Casco Viejo, the old quarter. With the car parked and bags in tow, we head down the charming cobblestoned streets to check in. It’s a gorgeous old building. The rooms are comfy and we have a little balcony onto the street. Our hosts are friendly and informative, we couldn’t have asked for more.

Some parts of the old city date back to the 1400’s. The Plaza Nueva comes to life at night with boisterous bars serving pintxos, our dinner consists of sampling a few at various bar’s. The plaza is buzzing with life, adults chatting and children playing games. The spanish are big on eating late and socialising.

In this part of Spain the food is all Pintxos, dinner is not about sitting down at a restaurant; its about bar hopping, sampling a few pintxos and moving onto the next.  Anything from simple ham on a thinly sliced baguette to a scallop mornay is on offer. You generally pay about €2 a piece.

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San Sebastian is renowned for its food and it didn’t disappoint. Its coastal location provides a dominance in seafood and one of our favourite finds was La Mejinnonera. You know it has to be good just from the crowds. No seats; everyone is standing. Once you find a spot to order it’s a limited menu of mussels and Calamari.  Its quick, fresh and delicious.

Don has been on a mission to try all the local and/or national specialties and drink the local beer and wine. Churros being one of his favourite spanish delights, he is excited to find a street side van selling freshly cooked spanish donuts. Don, is in foodie heaven, sitting by the beach devouring his chocolate covered churros. All too sweet and sugary for me.

The beaches are crowded and the women predominately topless. I only make the comment from observation, as through Turkey, Greece and Croatia there was very little topless sunbaking, though you could always find a designated nudist area.

At midday the beach is vacated; the spanish like the french, love lunch and everyone packs up and heads off to eat and have a siesta, returning for the late afternoon; relaxing on the beach until the sun sets.

We have a frustrated love for the siesta tradition and in general, the work hours in Europe.

There is immense respect that much of this part of the world has not caved into spinning the wheel faster and faster. I could point out that this also coincides with deteriorating economic states for these countries and many others across Europe. But the question is – who has got it right?

Everyone stops for lunch; children go home from school and spend it with parents, or relatives. People stop and appreciate life, they know their neighbours, they sit and talk, chew the fat and solve the problems of the world together.

There is an overwhelming sense of family, community, companionship and love of life, no matter how simple it is. People greet each other, and us, in the streets. We’ve entered restaurants where the other patrons welcome you as you sit down. Leave the butcher, and the other customers bid you a good day as well.

Our frustration usually starts when we arrive somewhere between 12 to 2pm and want to gather some information and pick up a map of the area from the tourist office.  No, it’s shut, everyone’s at lunch!

And try being a tourist on weekends.  Retail shuts down from midday Saturday until Monday morning. Being a tourist on a weekend can be near impossible.   We have also learnt to watch the fuel gauge. Petrol stations switch to ‘pay at pump’ mode on weekends and we discovered that this meant our credit cards are usually rejected. Having come close a few times we ensure we fill-up before the weekend.

But, the pace of life seems to tick just that little bit slower and I like it.

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