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Posts tagged ‘Inca’

May 23

Lima – the overland journey ends

May 21, Ballestas Islands
The Ballestas Islands are in the Paracas National Reserve and are often referred to as ‘the Galapagos of Peru’ or, ‘the poor man’s Galapagos’.

The islands are a haven for wildlife and hundreds of pelicans, boobies, flamingos, sea lions and even penguins.

As we leave the port we are lucky to see a pod of dolphins feeding near the boat.

The only way to get out to the islands is a 2 hour boat tour, you can’t actually land on them.

The boat navigates around the craggy rock formations, coated in guano; which looks like dripping icing on a cake.

Sea lions bask in the sun, a colony of pelicans perch in a line along a clifftop.

Cormorants in their thousands nest on the islands and there are a few Humboldt Penguins, as well as Peruvian Booby’s – these have white feet not blue.

And just in case you’re interested – the collective name for a group of Cormorants is a gulp

Now protected, the islands were pillaged over decades for guano, bird-droppings used as a mineral rich natural fertilizer. It was one of Peru’s biggest exports up to the late 1900’s.

Today the collection of guano is controlled and limited to three months per year.

It was well worth the trip, I’ll let you know if it’s any substitute for the Galapagos!

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May 21-22, Lima
After our visit to Ballestas we have 270 km to Lima and arrive late in the afternoon.

While Peru’s capital officially began life in 1535, when Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro founded the city on the Day of the Three Kings, settlements had been scattered through the valley since before the Incas.

The city was built on top of an existing palace and temples that belonged to the local chief who had little choice but to move on.

Today, Lima is a chaotic city with over 8.8 million people residing here. The traffic is horrendous; it’s a slow crawl through the city to our hotel.

We decided early-on in our travels that we are not really big city people and this wasn’t appealing to us.

Lima has a reputation for food, with several restaurants rating amongst the best in the world.

The districts of Miraflores and Barranco are where most are located.  We didn’t make it out there, as we couldn’t face the thought of an hour, or so, in traffic.

We spent our two days in Lima exploring the historic centre and enjoying its Spanish colonial charm.

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The Government Palace occupies the north side of the Plaza de Armas (or Plaza Mayor), Lima’s central square.

Back in the time of the Incas, the site had strategic and spiritual meaning, which is why the last Inca chief in Lima also lived here. Pizarro, the conqueror of the Incas, so liked the site that he kept it for the first Spanish palace, whose construction began in 1535.

Since then, Government Palace has been rebuilt numerous times; the current French-inspired mansion was constructed in the 1930s.

The changing of the guard takes place everyday at noon and is a spectacle worth watching. A marching bands belts out theatrical tunes including the theme from Rocky.

On the other three sides of the square are the Cathedral of Lima and the adjoining Archbishop’s Palace, which were originally built during the 1600s. All the structures display intricately carved wooden balconies that make the downtown cityscape so unique.

A trip underneath the Church of San Francisco to the finely preserved catacombs, is rather gruesome.  It’s estimated that this is the final resting place of somewhere between 50,000 – 70,000 individuals.

We have our last tour dinner with our overland compadres at a not-so-typical Beer Hall in central Lima (not worth mentioning the place).

Jez & Tig
Don & Lucy
Michelle & Aynslie

To our fellow Dragoman/Intrepid companions; it’s been a fun and enjoyable 21 days with you all. No doubt we will see some of you somewhere, sometime, someplace!

Our Journey has taken us from the breathtaking highs of La Paz to the colonial sights of Lima. We’ve discovered some of the most amazing and beautiful parts of Bolivia and Peru, two South American gems.

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Note: Intrepid & Dragoman material has been used in posts related to the 21 day overland journey La Paz to Lima.

May 19

The Nazca Lines

May 18, Puerto Inca
From Arequipa we are heading to Nazca; it’s a two day journey.

Once we hit the coast it’s endless kilometers of sand dunes and wild coast line dotted with sketchy towns, often nothing more than a service station and a few crumbling houses.
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We cover 380 km before arriving at Puerto Inca, where we overnight at a beach side campsite.

Camping……let me just clarify; the campsite had cabins available as an ‘upgrade’.  Only two or three hardcore campers end-up pitching tents.

Situated in a beautiful bay on the Peruvian coast, Puerto Inca was once the Inca port that supplied the city of Cusco with fish.

There are a number of Inca ruins here including a cemetery and a temple of reincarnation. Part of the road that set out from the coast to Cusco is also still clearly visible.

May 19, Nazca
The entire desert in the Nazca area was once home to the ancient Nazca and Paracas cultures which preceded the Incas by over 500 years.

On the way to Nazca we stop at the Chauchilla Indian Cemetery.  Located in an isolated part of the Nazca Desert, the cemetery is believed to have been established around 200 AD and was in use up to the 9th Century.

It is something of an eerie sight to see the skulls, bones and even hair of the dead, preserved in a remarkable state.  The bodies are so remarkably preserved that I was a little skeptical during our visit (and still a little so).  It’s only through my post-visit, blog-post research, that I have discovered the facts.

A pity that our guide on the day was more interested in playing “can you guess why….” and when I ask “why don’t you just tell us”, I was told I was being impatient! That might also be true – standing out in the hot sun was not my idea of a pleasant day, but he clearly left out some important facts!

The preservation is obviously due to the dry desert climate – it rains 2 hours a year, but our guide failed to mention anything about the funeral rites conducted.  The bodies were dressed in embroidered cotton, painted with a resin and then entombed in dugouts made from mud bricks.

The resin is the all-important missing fact; it kept out insects and slowed bacterial decay. It is this process that is believed to account for the high degree of preservation seen in these thousand-year-old bodies which still have hair and the remains of soft tissue.

I’m still a little suspicious that they leave these remains exposed rather than preserved in a museum.

Chauchilla Cemetery
Chauchilla Cemetery
Chauchilla Cemetery

Next we stop at the Cahuachi Pyramid, a major ceremonial centre between 100 BC – 400 AD.  There is evidence that the pyramid was related to the Nazca lines.

Chauchilla Pyramid
Chauchilla Pyramid

The Nazca Lines are located on the arid Preuvian plain in the Pampa Colorada (Red Plain), covering over 450 sq km, it is one of the greatest archeological enigmas of the world.

Over 700 depictions of living creatures, plants and geometric shapes, measuring kilometres in dimensions are scratched into the earth.

Created in three phases from around 500 BC through to 500 AD, the dimensions, diversity and quantity of the Nazca lines are unrivalled by any other ‘geoglyphs’ in the world.

They were etched into the ground by scraping away the top darker layer of gravel which then contrasts with the paler one underneath.

It is only from the air that you can really appreciate the scale and magnificence of the elaborate designs

I was expecting some stylised scribble that took some stretching of the imagination to visualise the images, but clear as day the outline of a whale appears and an enormous monkey appears with its spiraling tail.

The hummingbird, condor and the astronaut on the hillside, are among the many we fly over – nothing but spectacular.

Who drew them and why, remains one of the great mysteries of ancient times.

Nazca Lines
Hummingbird
Nazca Lines
Bird
Whale

Just outside the town of Nazca is a complex system of aquaducts with over 30 channels. Built around the 5th century, they provide year round access to water and are still in use today.

The engineering is unique and includes a series of spiralling wells designed to oxygenate the water and provide access for cleaning.

Cantayo Aquaducts
Cantayo Aquaducts
Cantayo Aquaducts

Back on the bus truck, Lima bound.

May 13

Machu Picchu & Cuzco

4 -5 May, Cuzco
Tucked away on a beautiful peninsula overlooking Lake Umayo are the ruins of Sillustani, our first stop after leaving Puno.

Built by a pre-Inca civilisation hundreds of years ago, the Sillustani Indians built several “Chullpas”; funeral towers whose construction is far more complex than anything the Inca people ever built.

Each tower would have contained the remains of noble men, buried together with offerings to secure their comfortable passage into the next life.

After exploring the ruins it’s back to the truck for a 440km drive to Cuzco.

Lake Umayo
Sillustani Ruins
Lake Umayo
Lake Umayo

On arrival into Cuzco we have a quick shower before heading out to the Fallen Angel restaurant for a group dinner.

This results in a rather late night (though I think we were the first to depart for bed), the effects of alcohol mixed with altitude (we are at 3,450m) take their toll on most of the gang, including us!

The Cuzco region is the heart and soul of Peru. The city itself is the continent’s oldest continuously inhabited city and was the home of the Incas for two centuries before the Spanish built their first capital here.

Steeped in history, tradition and legend, Cuzco is a fascinating mix of both cultures. Inca-built walls line the central streets and many of the elegant colonial buildings are built on or around Inca foundations.

There are five of us not doing a Machu Picchu hike and we will have plenty of time to explore the town, with its cobblestone streets that lead to many Baroque churches and ancient temples.

6 May, Sacred Valley
The Sacsayhuman ruins are located just outside the city. These ruins are best known for the gigantic blocks that make up the zigzag frontal of this fort-like construction.

The ancient monolithic stonework is unique. There is much speculation as to how the stonemasons of the time could fit the irregular shapes together, without the use of mortar. It’s the perfect jigsaw.

The largest blocks could weight over 120 metric tons and stand over 8 metres in height.

There are many theories as to why Sacsayhuaman was originally built and what it was used for, but the most likely is that it was a temple complex where offerings were made to appease the gods.

Sacsayhuman Ruins
Sacsayhuman Ruins
Sacsayhuman walls

We then head into the Sacred Valley with a quick stop at an animal sanctuary, before we reach the mountainside ruins of ancient Pisac.

Most notable are the curving agricultural terraces stretching down the hillside providing a sweeping vista of the valley below.

The religious buildings in particular are as finely made as those at Machu Picchu, and the site features one of Peru’s only remaining intihuatanas, enigmatic carved rocks that were used for astronomical observation.

Pisac view Sacred Valley
Pisac Ruins
Sacred Valley
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Pisac Markets

The current town of Pisac is now located beneath the ruins and hosts a popular artisanal market, so we venture down for a bit of shopping.

Our Lunch is at Alhambra Hacienda in the small town of Urubamba.

I’m not normally a fan of a buffet, but this one is exceptional, with much of the ingredients grown on the property.

Ollantaytambo Ruins

Ollantaytambo Ruins

In 1536, the settlement of Ollantaytambo was the site of the Inca’s greatest military victory over the invading Spaniards.

Today, it is one of the only towns in Peru that retains its original Inca walls and street grid, dominated by long, ancient stone walls that once divided groups of homes around communal courtyards.

An imposing set of stone terraces (from which the Inca assaulted their Spanish invaders with slingshots and arrows), capped by six enigmatic slabs of pink granite, looms above the town.

Our final stop for the day is in the village of Chinchero at a women’s community textile project. The women are dressed in traditional clothing and speaking native Quechua.

We are welcomed with tea and shown how they spin, thread, weave and dye the wool with natural dyes, using ancient techniques.

The quality of work is the best we’ve seen in this part of the world; the fine baby alpaca products were beautiful.

Alas, our pockets were nearly empty and whilst I could have purchased much more, Don acquired a jumper. I’ll just have to find an excuse to go back one day!

Alpaca Yarn
The Alpaca
Weaving

7-8 May, Cuzco
Left to our own devices for the next two days, we spend our time relaxing and exploring more of Cuzco.

Our daily adventures begin with breakfast at Jacks Cafe Cusco, the best coffee we have had in South America. Not surprisingly, it’s run by an Australian.

The city offers free (tip based) walking tours each day. There are a number of guides touting for business and we end up with our own private guide for two hours exploring the city.

Our best adventure would be in search of wine. Reasonable quality wine is hard to find, especially outside the mass produced supermarket brands such as Fronterra and Casillero del Diablo, which we are all too familiar with.

On the way into town, the truck had passed a wine shop. Back tracking the route was not so easy. Carmen had had a little difficulty navigating through Cuzco to our hotel.

Starting at the Mercado San Pedro, the usual spectacle of freshly butchered meats and fresh produce, we can’t go past a freshly squeezed juice – a mix of strawberry, bananas, kiwifruit and who know what for 6 sol (AUS$2.70). My cup was topped up three times from the blender.

Our efforts paid off. We found the one and only liquor store in Cuzco which had a good range of wine at reasonable prices. We also haggled for a ‘special-price’ for a dozen.

With our box of wine in hand, we hailed a taxi, who asked for 5 sol (AUS$2.30). This is probably overpaying, but reasonable to us. As seems to often be the case, we also went via the petrol station and filled-up, with the engine still running!

When we got out, I noted the car had no taxi markings whatsoever. We’d jumped into a random car, with the driver out to make 5 sol!

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9 May, Ollantaytambo
Today we head back to Ollantaytambo to meet our hiking companions. We will spend the night in the town, leaving only a 2 hour train journey the following day to Machu Picchu.

Don and I take a hike up to the Pinkulluna ruins, the climb is steep, but the view back over the town is worth it.

Pinkulluna Ruins
Pinkulluna Ruins
Pinkulluna Ruins

10 May, Machu Picchu
An early train to Aguas Calientes allows us to get to Machu Picchu before the trains from Cusco arrive and be ahead of the crowd.

The train trip provides for some spectacular scenery as it winds deep into the Andes.  The vegetation grows thick and wild as we follow the Urubamba River and the towering mountain peaks disappear into the clouds.

Machu Picchu has been a long anticipated highlight and it does not disappoint.  It is one of those genuinely magical places, and catching your first glimpse of the lost city is definitely a moment you never forget.

The ruins of this forgotten city are stunningly located, perched high on a rocky escarpment, surrounded by verdant cloud forest, with the river running through the gorge far below.

Hidden away, Machu Picchu is invisible from below, so it’s no surprise its ruins remained a secret for so many years.

Discovered in 1911 by the explorer Hiram Bingham, although the ruins were heavily covered by dense jungle foliage, many of the buildings were well preserved and in excellent condition.

Historians believe the city was probably completely self-contained, surrounded by agricultural terraces sufficient to feed all it’s inhabitants and watered by natural springs.

It’s thought that the city was the location of a royal palace and estate, home to the Inca Emperors, or possibly a sacred religious and ceremonial sight.

The city consists of more than 200 buildings, from houses to temples, storage buildings and public spaces. It’s fascinating to be able to gaze down on the city from above and imagine how it would have looked during the height of the Inca empire.

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Note: I contained myself with the number of photos (more available upon request)!

12 May, Cuzco
Back in Cuzco for the last day we tick off some more historic sites and museums (after breakfast at Jack’s, of course).

The Church of Santo Domingo is built on the site of one of the most important temples of the Inca Empire. Qurikancha, the temple of the Sun God, would have been the most prominent temple and astronomical observatory in Cuzco.

The carved granite walls were once covered in gold, its courtyard filled with golden life-size sculptures of animals, even the temple floor was covered in solid gold.  All, until pillaged by the Spanish conquistadors.

The Spanish demolished most of the temple to build the current Church on its foundations, using the Inca stonework in its construction.

A credit to Inca stone masonry and architectural design with its unique interlocking design, has been its ability to withstand the test of time and several severe earthquakes.

Our tickets also included the Convent of Santa Catalina, so why not…

In Inca times the most beautiful and virtuous noblewomen where selected to live in Acllawasi and devoted their lives to the Sun God. They weaved clothes for ceremonial purposes and assisted in religious ceremonies.

Upon the Spanish occupation of Cuzco, a convent was founded on the same site in 1601.

The Museo Machu Picchu is a must-see.  It is dedicated to preserving the history of Machu Picchu and houses over 4,000 artifacts, including some 366 objects that have been returned by Yale University in recent times (they really should return everything). I’m tempted to say more, but will bite my tongue.

As far as museums go, this one has done a pretty good job at telling its story.

A video starts you of with the history of and there are little videos aligned with displays throughout.

Enough culture for one day, we meet up with some of the gang to enjoy happy hour cocktails at Fallen Angel.

Don & I limit our cocktail intake (not wanting a repeat of night 1). We’ve decided to treat ourselves with dinner at Le Soleil, a French restaurant with a great reputation.  And it was a superb meal.

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13 May, Departing Cuzco
We are heading out at 8:00am. Lucky for us, Jack’s opens at 7:30, so we have time to get down there and grab our last coffee before we go.

We pass Tige and Lewis on the way, who also put in take-out orders.

I have to make a quick visit to the Cathedral, which I have so far failed to do – only because I refuse to pay to go into a church (refer to Sienna).  If you arrive before 9:00am its free.

The Spanish made a habit of building on top of Inca places of significance, this site had previously been the Inca Viracocha’s palace.

Whilst its renowned for its colonial art, my main purpose is to view the painting of the Last Supper.

It’s not much different than any other depiction, except for what the Apostles are feasting on: Andean fruits and…..is that a guinea pig?

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May 3

Intrepid Travels Begin – La Paz to Bolivia

30 April, La Paz
Today we join our Intrepid tour from La Paz to Lima. The tour is actually run by Dragoman, who specialise in overland travel through South America.

The trip begins with a group meeting at 6pm in our hotel.  Our fearless tour leader is Rich, with driving support from Tige and Jez, who is on his maiden voyage as a trainee.

Our transport for 21 days will be ‘Carmen’. Tige points out that it’s a truck, not a bus, and we are not to insult Carmen by calling her the later.

We are joining Carmen on a small part of her 96 day journey, a voyage which began in Rio in February and will end in June at Cartegena.

Some of the passengers have been onboard since the beginning or for much of the trip: Michelle, Aynslie, Lisa, Manju, Birgit and Mary.

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Carmen & Don

Then there is Donna, Courtney and Michael, who have previously done a leg on Carmen before jumping off and are rejoining again in La Paz.

Lewis was leaving the trip in La Paz, then decided to extend his holiday, which resulted in having to quit his job to stay on to Lima.

That leaves 9 newbies eagerly ready to jump on in La Paz; Greta and Agusta, Julia, Sarah, Bob, Matt, Kyle and the two of us.

Once introductions are made, paper work completed and instructions given for our morning departure, those who are up for it head out to dinner.

1 May, Copacabana
It’s an early 7:00am departure, in the hope of escaping the traffic chaos of La Paz – which is only somewhat of a success.  We have 200km to cover to reach Copacabana.

It happens to be the Fiesta de la Cruz and there are celebrations Countrywide. We hit a procession on the outskirts of La Paz which makes navigating the potholes, crazy traffic and a crowd of people walking down the middle of the road, slow going.

Copacabana is a picturesque town on the shores of Lake Titicaca with an impressive Moorish-style cathedral. On Sundays the town fills with the faithful believers who walk up Cerro Calvario (the hill guarding the town) to make their dreams come true.

At the top of the hill numerous stalls sell all manner of miniature material goods from cars and buses through to houses and graduation certificates. The selected items are taken to a small altar where they are blessed, decorated with flowers and petals, incense is burnt and finally beer is sprayed over the whole ensemble.

A fascinating insight into local beliefs, as is the blessing of the vehicles in front of the cathedral. Thanks to the trip notes for that little insight.

Copacabana takes its celebrations seriously and this is a big weekend, not only is it the Fiesta de la Cruz, it’s also the Fiesta de la Chakana (Southern Cross) and the town turns the two festivals into a non-stop party for four days.

We arrive early afternoon as things are getting started. With streets blocked off we have to abandon the truck and walk into the town square.

Endless dance troops are parading by; each with their own band and elaborate colourful costumes, including fabulous masks and head-dresses.

The atmosphere is fun and lively, people young and old celebrating throught the town and who later invite us to join in.

Pacena (a Bolivian beer) are clearly supporting the event, handing out free beer to the parade participants – this keeps the party spirit going and by the end of the night, there are a lot of intoxicated Bolivians around town.

The celebrations go through to the early hours of morning, including a party outside our room until about 3am.

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2 May, Copacabana
A little weary from the lack of sleep, we board a boat out to the historic Isla del Sol on Lake Titicaca for a 14km hike.

Inca mythology claims the island is believed to be the the birthplace of the sun and where the bearded white god Viracocha and the first Incas made their mystical appearances.

Even today Aymara and Quechua people in Bolivia and Peru still accept the legend of the sun being born on this island as their creation story.

There are a host of ancient ruins dotted across the island, along with tiny traditional villages and walking trails. There are no cars, Llamas and donkeys provide the transportation.

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3 May: Lake Titicaca/Puno
Another 200 km drive takes us across the Peruvian border to the lakeside town of Puno.

Puno is a melting pot of Aymara and Quechuan Indian culture and traditional Andean customs are still strongly represented here. The town is known as the folklore capital of Peru and is famous for its many festivals and traditional dances.

Don and I find lunch at the local market close to where we are staying. Amongst freshly butchered meat (with roaming dogs hopeful for scraps) are stalls cooking up lunch, serving you at communal laminated tables.

We must have been looking hungry since a women at one of the food stalls ushers us with a friendly smile to sit down. We order the pollo lunch special at a costly AUS$5 for two.

It includes a huge bowl of soup, which itself would have been enough, followed by grilled chicken, rice and potatoes and a cup of sweet mint-like ‘mate’ tea, which I’ve now discovered is considered carcinogenic!

In the afternoon the Carmen gang participate in a friendly tuk-tuk race from the hotel to the port. After having the lead the race, it was clear our man had peaked early; we came a respectable third.

We board a boat to the floating reed islands of Uros on Lake Titicaca.

The Uros tribe warmly greet us and give a glimpse into what their lives on the reed islands are like, demonstrating how the islands are made and how they live.  Then they delight in dressing us up in traditional clothes.

The Uros tribe pre-dates the Inca civilisation. According to legends they were superior beings, existing before the sun, when the earth was dark and cold. They were impervious to drowning and being struck by lightning until they fell from grace by disobeying a universal order and mixed with humans.

The tribe scattered, lost their identity, language and customs. Today the are known as the Uro-Aymaras, and now speak Aymara.

There are about 40 islands on Lake Titicaca made and re-made from the totira reeds which grow in the lake.

The reeds are essential to their existence, providing land and shelter, sustenance and transportation for the residential Uros tribe.

There existence is a precarious one; the reeds rot and constantly need replacing. Once dry they are susceptible to fire. Drowning is sadly a common occurrence, especially young children. The climate is harsh: cold, windy and at an altitude of over 3,800 meters, the sun can burn fiercely.

Yet they have endured centuries and outlasted the mighty Inca civilisation.

Alasitas are miniature that represent the desires and wishes of people and the Alasitas Market is on the night we are in Puno.

The crowded alleys are lined with stalls selling everything imaginable: husbands, wifes, houses, university diplomas and suitcases of money.

Our highlight was dinner – streets stalls roasting everything from guinea-pig to pork and lamb and we skip the guinea-pig, but devour a succulent meal of pork and lamb.

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